Yet, despite the flurry of new villas and hotels that has followed on hard into the 21st century, Mykonos has preserved its character and history, partly because the whole island is protected by a preservation order – each new building must comply with the vernacular style – and partly because the scent of jasmine still lingers in the air.

The honeyed sands and pure-as-gin sea are as postcard-perfect as ever. Monumental rocks and colossal cacti still sprout from the sunburnt hills. Beyond the neon-bright boutiques of Matoyianni, the Fifth Avenue of Mykonos, you might spy an old lady quietly stitching lace in a flowery nightdress. And if you get up early enough, you'll find leathery men with impressive whiskers philosophising on the port.

Past, present and future, Mykonos, with its high-energy hedonism and illimited mindset, will somehow never go out of fashion.