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Ancient heritage offers fascinating folks and food

By DENG ZHANGYU in Lijiang, Yunnan | China Daily | Updated: 2025-05-29 06:57
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Coffee brewed from locally sourced beans at Xundoushi Coffee Manor. [Photo by He Zhao/For China Daily]

The large square in front of the museum used to be where caravan teams exchanged goods. For centuries, Lijiang has been an important transit hub on the Ancient Tea Horse Road. Caravans would restock supplies, exchange horses to continue their journey, or trade goods.

"Over 100 caravan teams used to exchange goods here. It was quite a spectacular, bustling scene," he recalls. The hoofprints left on the stone-paved square are a testament to its lively past.

After visiting the private museum, He Zhao took me to his friend's restaurant, which specializes in caravan-style cuisine — a fitting choice. Restaurant owner He Guojun says that the conditions for the caravans were harsh. The most distinctive dish was a pot of soup with cured meat complemented by wild herbs and plants found along the way. His restaurant also offers a variety of similar soups flavored with an assortment of seasonal vegetables and mushrooms.

After lunch, we walked around Lijiang ancient town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its well-preserved ancient wooden architecture with tiled roofs and intricate carvings.

Numerous cafes are tucked away behind flower-adorned storefronts. He Zhao says that while the city has no shortage of tour guides, what it really lacks are skilled baristas. Many people enjoy finding a cafe with a scenic view, where they can sip a cup of coffee and gaze at the snowcapped mountains, letting the afternoon pass by.

"Let me show you the life of contemporary Lijiang residents," he says.

We visited Xundoushi Coffee Manor in Baisha ancient town. The cafe is situated on grassland and features a wooden structure that reflects the local architectural style. Guests can rest in outdoor tents on the lawn and enjoy their coffee while taking in the distant Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

Cafe owner Zhou Li is a professional coffee trainer. All the coffee beans used in the shop are sourced from Yunnan, which accounts for more than 98 percent of China's coffee plantation area and production.

Many customers find the cafe to be a therapeutic experience. Some also visit to learn coffee-making techniques and take the opportunity to relax amid the beautiful scenery.

After watching the sunset over the snowcapped mountains, we headed to a restaurant in the village for dinner.

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