When Vinny Lauria, the executive chef and partner at Stone Nullah Tavern, came over to our table toward the end of our meal to see what we thought of his New American Cuisine, I told him how I really felt.

The dinner menu, which consists of one page, is divided into six sections. But instead of the usual starters, mains and desserts, there are categories like "swine", "pickled" and "legumes, grains and pulses".

Lauria explained that he tried to bring a balance of tastes to each of his dishes, and that includes sour, sweet and savory.