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Travel
China's 'Big Easy'
2010-Mar-4 09:41:35

China's 'Big Easy'
The temple attracts hundreds of believers from all over the
country, and a small hill behind it offers a great view of
Gulangyu Island. Tian Xiao / for China Daily
Xiamen has a relaxed style, attractive buildings and a subtropical climate that makes it a perfect long-weekend destination, reports Daniel Garst

Xiamen, in Fujian province, is like New Orleans in the United States. Both have subtropical climates, an old-world charm and a laid-back atmosphere.

Xiamen is architecturally attractive with many European buildings dating back to the 19th century, when the city was home to foreign consulates.

Xiamen is a medium sized metropolis, by China standards, and the pace of life is less frenetic than Beijing or Shanghai, with beautiful beaches, good nightlife and fresh seafood.

But while New Orleans suffered from high crime and poverty even before Hurricane Katrina, Xiamen is safe, has a vibrant economy, and is quite diverse as many Korean companies have set up shops here.

I stayed at the Spring Sounds Hotel, which was clean and comfortable and cost just 180 yuan ($26.30) a night. It is conveniently located in the center of the city, opposite the ferry terminal to Gulangyu Island.

I believe walking is the best way to get to know a city and you can see many of the main city center sites in a leisurely one-day tour.

I first explored the small back alleys north of Zhongshan Mall, which is not listed as a tourist attraction, but should be. It is filled with fantastic outdoor markets, particularly for fresh seafood.

After a break for coffee at a pleasant caf located at the north end of Simeng Jie, I strolled down Zhongshan Pedestrian Mall, where old buildings are dramatically juxtaposed against high rises.

I then headed down Simeng Jie toward Nanputuo Temple, which took an hour and I had lunch at one of the many cafes near the temple.

I have visited many Buddhist temples in China, but Nanputuo is hands-down my favorite. The building and grounds are gorgeous.

I hiked up the small hill behind the temple and the trail went through a pleasant grove to a vantage point with a swell view of Xiamen and Gulangyu Island.

Xiamen University, where the writer Lu Xun (1881-1936) taught for several years, the beach and Hulishan Fort, provided further opportunities to stroll about.

For dinner I had fresh fish, crab and shrimp and a Xiamen specialty, hailijian, or pan-fried oysters in scrambled eggs.

I spent the next day on Gulangyu Island. No cars are allowed here, so its lanes, which are lined with attractive old villas, are ideal places to enjoy a quiet walk.

I spent the morning looking around Shuzhuang Park. Aside from its famous piano museum and beautiful grounds, the park boasts China's only private art museum, which has a small but good collection of older furniture.

Had the weather been good, I would have climbed up Sunshine Rock and then walked on the beach on the island's south end.

Instead, I strolled down a back lane behind Shuzhuang Park and spent a couple of hours in a caf.

It was a perfect long weekend in "China's Big Easy" and I look forward to returning.

 

 

 

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