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Keeping it simple

By Mike Peters | China Daily | Updated: 2013-08-24 00:08

Keeping it simple

Steven Liu's creations show his eagerness to preserve culinary traditions but give them a new twist.[Photo provided to China Daily]

The only Asian in a kitchen with dozens of chefs, he loved being part of a new environment within an old tradition.

"The British are very proud of their culture. Mince pie?" he asks rhetorically. "We've been doing it the same way since 150 years back, the same recipe, without thinking it could be changed to be more suitable for modern tastes. But we could, and we did."

Liu's eagerness to preserve culinary icons but give them a new twist stood him in good stead when he joined Fairmont — first in Dubai and later at the company's landmark Peace Hotel in Shanghai. It helped that the Peace Hotel's many traditions include its stature as an international meeting place, where East-meets-West.

Keeping it simple

Video: Interview with Chef Liu

That's why, for example, when Liu says he likes "pairing heavy European cuisine with a good quality Chinese white wine", he's probably talking about baijiu, not one of the growing number of good grape tipples now emerging from Chinese vineyards.

Likewise, he's planned other menus that paired Sichuan-style entrees with Old World whiskies. "That makes people smile — they may have never thought of pairing like that."

Liu sees himself as a champion of simplicity, an approach that he says makes good food shine.

Thanks to his time in Britain, he notes, he's even learned to love peas.

"Before, I hated peas," he says. "I thought they were for students, construction workers, for the army. People who ate lots of peas did that because they are cheap."

But peas taught him an important lesson: "You can use a simple element to make something special, even high-end cuisine."

Sometimes contestants on Master Chef China try too hard to be fancy or exotic. He's not impressed by a wokful of snake, for example, which he says happens "all the time".

So how to get high marks from Chef Hell?

"I think if you start to talk about FOOD and good food, it should be very simple and with great flavor," he says. "Use natural ingredients and methods to cook rather than put strange things on the plate."

While Liu gets a little kick about his TV persona, he doubts his reputation would surprise his present or past kitchen colleagues, among them is London's fiery chef Gordon Ramsey.

"In the industry kitchen, that's the way we actually act in the kitchen," Liu says. "We look for detail and passion for our cuisine and food. We do not allow any mistake — the guest will only give you one chance."

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