GAO ERQIANG/CHINA DAILY

Zheng Xianchao doesn't look like a kidnapper, but his tied-up "victims" might tell you otherwise.

The 28-year-old Shanghai native arrives at the renowned Wang Bao He restaurant before 7 every morning and spends the next two hours selecting 1,000 hairy crabs from the back of a black van, flanked only by his shifu (master).

The two only pick female crabs that weigh more than 100 grams and males over 150 grams. Anything lighter would be frowned upon by the customers of the time-honored restaurant that specializes in the autumn delicacy.

After transporting the crabs to the 272-year-old restaurant, Zheng spends another three hours tirelessly tying each squirming crustacean with long blades of boiled lemongrass. The entire space, thanks to the scent of the herb, smells more like a spa than a kitchen.