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Epicure

Baked to perfection

By Alexis Hooi (China Daily)
Updated: 2009-07-23 10:30

A section of the 5,000-km-long karez network in Turpan.

In the mid-7th century, when the mighty Tang Dynasty held sway over the northern Silk Road, Jiaohe was a seat of the "Protector-General of the Western Regions", one of the highest levels for a military outpost of a Chinese commander sent to guard the wild west.

Most of Jiaohe has long since crumbled to dust, but stand in the middle of what archaeologists have identified as the main street to envisage what major structures like a Buddhist temple and governor's office looked like in their heyday.

All these continue to glare under a midday sun, evoking the golden times along a trading route that exchanged the riches of East and West.

Once you have had enough of the scorching sun, head to Grape Valley where locals hiding indoors from the summer heat begin to emerge.

Turquoise-colored water gushes down from the mountains and snakes through the valley in waterways, soothing visitors and residents as they munch idly on fresh watermelon under the shade of trellises with ripening grapes hanging above.

"Turpan is virtually dead for most of the day as people stay at home," Awatoli says.

"Dusk is when we come here to celebrate summer and when people really begin to dance, sing and relax in the open.

"That's when it gets really cool."

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