You know winter is dead and gone when ripe avocados appear in the market and on menus in force. We enjoyed their silky goodness last week at Happi Sake, the sibling of Beijing's more upscale Sake Manzo. Forty yuan ($6.40) got us a sushi handroll with a nice chartreuse fan of avocado slices and a mound of jewel-toned tuna chunks. The extensive sake menu is indexed in English by category, with light, medium and earthy offerings at many price points.

Happy Sake, 2A Tuanjiehu Beilu (North Road), Chao-yang district, Beijing. 010-6582-8216.

(China Daily 04/28/2015 page24)