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Couture: A paler shade of Valentino

By Godfrey Deeny
Updated: 2007-01-24 10:38

Paris - Is this as pale as it gets?

A model presents a creation by Italian designer Valentino appears as part of his Spring-Summer 2007 Haute Couture fashion collection show in Paris, January 22, 2007. [Reuters]

The latest generation of whip-thin and endlessly leggy runway models - they have names like Magdalena, Lindsay and Inguna - starred in the spring 2007 haute couture collection by Valentino presented in Paris on Monday, January 22. But where the almost entirely white, ecru and cream clothes imparted class and elegance, the weirdly whitewashed pancake makeup added decades to the chignon-haired teenagers.

View creations of Valention Spring-Summer 2007 collection

For whatever reason - his program notes spoke of a - revisitation (sic) of the Sala Bianca where Valentino made his name in 1968 Sir Val is currently obsessed with white. Practically all of his Gstaad Getaway men's collection shown last week in Milan was in white. And the couturier's staff did go to a great deal of effort remodeling the Beaux Arts into a series of small though incredibly high circular rooms decorated in white tulle and neon chandeliers that looked like hangers. I know it's hard to make white look eerie, but this did.

As for the clothes, they were tremendously well made and, in the majority chic in that uptown sort of way. The Roman couturier reminded us that well into his seventies he's still an immaculate cutter capable making the most graceful of dresses - micro plissé robes that were supremely flattering, exquisite tulle dresses of rare sensitivity and ivory columns with matchless shimmering silver embroidery. Beautifully cut in the slimmest silhouette, embellished with hints of canary, soft pink and lilac, the collection had both credibility and great charm.

Yet, two things spoiled the effect. The first was aforementioned makeup that made the models look about the same age as the 45th anniversary Valentino plans to celebrate this summer with a big Roman event. The second was the hairy forearms of so many of the models, the side effect nutritionists will tell you is of undereating.

Now, far be it from us to lay any specific blame to this house on the very real problem of undersized models. But it did seem odd that in the midst of an industry attempt to, at the very least, address the issue over anorexia in modeling, so many of the catwalkers in this show looked visibly malnourished.

There?s a dark side to all that pale.



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