Kazakh encampment at Heaven Lake 1997. [Photo by Bruce Connolly/chinadaily.com.cn]

Initially I walked to where the waters cascaded from the lake over rocks before plunging down through the trees - a beautiful scene coupled with the aroma of pine forest. Crossing a nearby grassland, Kazakh horsemen rode up to greet me as I moved towards an outdoor restaurant. It was an hour's pleasure looking across the lake while consuming bowls of spicy noodles while literally in heaven!

Slopes led up to encampments of circular tents. Originally campgrounds for herders who moved their sheep up to these high summer pastures, some were now for visitors to overnight beside the lake while enjoying locally prepared dinners.