Life
THE BUILDINGS
Two or three of the fine hotels also enjoy the double distinction of the hotel building itself being a tourist draw. We have many original buildings here, not only in the Five Streets area, and they also have their original fixtures and fittings. It is heartening to see that they are being preserved and maintained. I have a wonderful view of the skyline from my bedroom balcony and sometimes I just go outside, no matter how cold it is and marvel at the lights across the city. Like many of you, I have seen buildings spring up in no time, and if you don't visit a particular area for a month or two, by the time you go back it will already have changed. In a way I both celebrate and lament Tianjin's rapid development, because there is no doubt that some of the old ways and hutongs are being swept away. When my friends from England came to see me, I took them over to Xiao Bai Lou, the European Street. They were absolutely not interested in this, and thought it was boring that there were so many recognisable Western restaurants. Actually my reason for taking them there was not to see this street, but the ones behind. There are several little alleys with absolutely ancient buildings that people still live in. My friends were fascinated, as I knew they would be. I really hope that despite the rapid development, Tianjin is also able to preserve its unique character. If you had to give a reason for why you love Tianjin, it probably wouldn't be because of the modern buildings, would it?
One thing I have always admired is the way they light the buildings here. Sometimes I get on a bus just for the sake of it and ride around the city looking at the beautifully lit buildings. In Hong Kong, the light show using the buildings down by the harbour is a tourist attraction and many people gather to watch it. I think Tianjin is well placed to offer the same kind of thing in the future. The hotels and buildings over by Hai He are particularly favoured with the best position and I hope someday that they will fully exploit this asset.
Actually I am happy to see that there are different types of buildings cropping up all over the city now. Before I thought that most of the buildings were just grey concrete monstrosities, but I think that attitudes are changing. It is exciting to see the new Xian Nong development and to see how they are restoring and preserving the courtyards. If you have been living here for some time, no doubt you feel the same as I do, that if your friends come to visit you from your country, you will not be embarrassed to show them around, in fact you will be proud to do so. As far as buildings are concerned, as well as the history, Tianjin is becoming a first class city.
TRANSPORT
It is already much better than when I first came. Of course for those of you that take cabs everywhere you won't realise this! All over the city you can see the new subway lines being built. It seems that for a long time there was just one line and now all we have four, including line 9 which goes out to Tanggu, and they are also building lines 5 and 6. The one I am most excited about is the line going straight to the airport. This city desperately needs it. I am tired of the majority of taxi drivers at the airport, they are only willing to take you long distances. This I can understand as they have to wait in line for a long time, but when you agree to let them take you home, many of them will go on a detour. The airport line will resolve this problem.
No doubt you are all really pleased with the high speed train to Beijing, how convenient has that made our lives? Having said that, at the moment going to Beijing Airport is a bit of a trek. It means either taking the 2? hour bus from Tianjin or taking the fast train to Beijing, braving the subway system there, which involves changing lines two or three times and then taking the airport express. In rush hour this is a nightmare journey. My ideal situation would be a train from Tianjin directly to Beijing Airport. I think in view of Tianjin's increasing importance, this is something that needs to be taken care of. At the moment Tianjin Airport does not serve many long distance routes and I cannot fly to England from there.
The traffic is an ongoing problem, which I am convinced I could resolve. I have noticed that the traffic lights are all being upgraded and now they tell us how much time we have, either to cross the road, or to drive on. This has definitely added years to my life, as before crossing the road meant saying a silent prayer before attempting it. My friends used to tell me, "Just cross, don't look at the cars, they will have to stop for you". Unfortunately, many times I have seen when the cars did not stop when somebody just stepped out into the road. The new traffic lights are a positive step in the right direction. Also, every so often the police have campaigns where they stop the cars and check the drivers' credentials. I even know where the traffic police station is to pay fines, so some laws are already in place, and gradually others will be introduced. At the moment, although I cannot upgrade Tianjin to first class status as far as transport is concerned, I would say that the transport system is a work in progress.
THE RESTAURANTS
Tianjin now has some fantastic world class restaurants and I really can say it is a first class city as far as eating is concerned. What do you think? What are your favourite restaurants? I must say that apart from the fine cuisine offered by many restaurants and hotels now, I am also a fan of Chinese traditional food, and one of my greatest pleasures is eating shao kao (street barbecues) with my good friends. Parker has his own take on the restaurants based on his experiences and this is what he has to say:-
Things in China move fast. And the proliferation of quality spots that offer up decent Western cuisine in Tianjin is no exception to this rule. When I first arrived in Tianjin over two years ago the Western food scene was a sad one at best. I learned to love Chinese food out of sheer necessity, and luckily I did because my current job requires much of the famed Chinese baijiu business dinner. But I digress.
Western food a few years ago in Tianjin was either expensive and of good quality, which meant it was out of reach for many on a day to day basis, or on the other extreme you could grab a hanbao (hamburger) on the cheap at one of the few Western style restaurants, if you were on a budget and willing to brave food poisoning, this was THE option for many of us.
Since then the cafés and restaurants that offer good Western food (and coffee) at reasonable prices has grown considerably. One can get lost among the Western style coffee shops in AoCheng that all have at least a satisfactory sandwich on the menu. Hexi and Nankai districts have their share of not-so-hidden gems like Ganggang, a great spot that combines an import grocery with an excellent eatery on the second floor that makes for a great one-stop-shop. If you like Eastern, non-Chinese food there a few Indian restaurants that have excellent food that my Indian and Pakistani friends frequent, like Golden Fork which is across from Tianjin Medical University.
It used to be the case that the number of restaurants offering a good burger or pizza could fit on one hand. That has changed in the recent past. While we may still be within a two-hand count, the progress is much appreciated by this laowai. It no longer feels like a Western food desert. Of course the more you are willing to spend, the greater your number of choices but the expansion of restaurants that are still within reach of the significant student population of the city is exciting.
Of course sprinkled throughout the many fusion or mainly Chinese restaurants, one can always grab an Italian Noodle dish (意大利面) but I would steer clear of these if you want something more authentic. These dishes are 'Italian' in name only. However, if you or a dining companion just can't stomach the local flavor it's a safety dish.
While Tianjin still lags behind Beijing in affordable foreign options, we are still enjoying a food scene miles ahead of what it used to be and most of the old favorites are still around. As more Irish Pubs, Texas BBQ's, and authentic Italian restaurants grow, Tianjin starts to feel more comfortable. It will never feel exactly like home, but that's ok. To expect the same food scene on the other side of the world in a developing country is probably asking too much anyway. For now I am happy to sit back and watch the development of our own corner of China and how Tianjin will continue to satiate the occasional craving for a taste of home from the expat community.
