Ta Prohm. [Photo by Shen Ye/For China Daily]

Going to distance to temples further out can also be combined with other fun activities, such as the small but fascinating Landmine Museum (admission $5), which raises awareness and money for families affected by landmines, and the interactive Bantreay Srei Butterfly Park ($4).

The great Tonle Sap Lake lies just south of Siem Reap and can be included in a temple tour, but the area really warrants a full day to see its floating villages and abundant wildlife. Boat trips to Chong Khneas, the closest fishing community to the city, are easy enough to organize, and I recommend from here heading to the larger and less-touristy Kampong Khleang, where homes are erected on giant stilts. The Prek Toal nature reserve, home to many endangered species, is also a must for birdwatchers.

To visit the main temple area costs $20 for a one-day pass, $40 for three days and $60 for a week, while Beng Melea, Banteay Srei and the Roluos group to the east all have separate admission charges.

Be prepared for lots of walking wherever you go. And before arranging a tour, it's worth spending a couple of hours at Angkor National Museum, where artifacts and interactive multimedia displays tell the story of the Khmer kingdom and explain what to look out for at the heritage sites. It's $12 for adults, $6 for children, or book online to save $1.